My sleep cycle is all turned around and inside-out, but it did
mean I was awake for the solstice lunar eclipse. Photography didn't
go as well as I would've liked (though no worse than expected), but
I did get two shots that came out okay (yeah, there are three pictures
in the linked album -- two are the same photo cropped differently).
Years ago, I shot the moon on film using a slow 300mm lens and a
3x teleconverter. With the "crop factor" of the digital camera,
this time I used a 400mm lens and 2x converter for the first shot
(shadow creeping across a still-white moon). I tried using a
department-store telescope, but that made the moon too large for
the frame. As the moon went deeper into Earth's shadow, it was
more dimly lit, so I had to take out the teleconverter to get
enough light. Between the distance the moon moves in one second,
and the lower resolution image (because the moon is only taking
up a quarter as many pixels before scaling), the red-lit moon
during the middle of the eclipse came out rather soft. I did
try upping the ISO, but it actually looked worse with the kind
of graininess I got than it did with the longer exposure here.
There are a few things folks often overlook when trying
to photograph the moon. The first is how small it is -- we tend
to remember it larger (and even perceive it in real time as being
larger than it is when it's near the horizon), but with a normal
lens[*] it's just a small dot in the sky. The second is how bright
it usually is (when there's no eclipse going on): yes, it's
nighttime where you're standing, and the camera sees a lot of
black night sky around it in the frame, but it's (usually) full
daylight in the place you're taking a picture of,
so it's easy to get just an indistinct ball o' white by overexposing
(though obviously I had the opposite problem when it was deep in
Earth's shadow). Third, once you get enough magnification to really
start seeing interesting detail, the moon is moving quickly enough
across the sky to be a bit of a nuisance -- you have to keep
re-aiming between shots, and as you see here, it moves enough to
blur in a longish exposure.[**]
A faster lens would help. So would a sturdier tripod. Even
a less-frosty night so I wouldn't have had to wear gloves. But
given that I'm not really set up for astrophotography, I'm not
terribly unhappy with what I got -- and I enjoyed seeing
the eclipse in any case.
Apparently, mainstream media were playing up the rarity of
an eclipse landing smack dab on the day of the solstice, but
some viewers/listeners managed to get the garbled message that
lunar eclipses themselves are centuries-rare. (If I understood
the conversation that took place when I was half-asleep yesterday,
one of Mom's friends was convinced that was the case.) Well,
I've seen a few, but it was still cool to see it again -- the
phenomenon hasn't gotten old for me yet..
I kept thinking that I should've had one camera set up to
take multiple exposures, showing the moon moving across the
sky and changing colours in one frame (either that one or the
one with the long lens would've had be a film camera, since
I've only got the one DSLR and I don't think my point-and-shoot
will do double exposures), but in the end I decided to Google
somebody else's version of that later -- I'm assuming somebody,
somewhere, will have done that. Eventually I'll do one of those
myself just to have one that's all mine, but not this time.
[*] "Normal lens" is a term-of-art, referring to a
lens with a "normal" field of view ... which is generally
considered to be in the ballpark of a focal length the same
as the diagonal measurement of the camera's sensor (digital
or chunk o' film). Depending on who you ask, for a 35mm film
camera, that means either a 40mm or 50mm lens (50mm being more
common, 40mm being closer to the definition). For other
formats, the actual focal length will be different, but many
digital cameras that have eensy weensy sensors and lenses with
focal lengths like 6mm give their focal lengths in "35mm
equivalent" measurements instead, with the idea that most users
will be more familiar with how those translate to
angle-of-view.
[**] Of course, a telescope mount with a clock-drive
could help immensely with both the constant re-aiming and the
motion blur. And I'm sure folks who are Really Serious about
getting good shots of the moon tend to pick up such useful items.
I want one, but wouldn't use it anywhere near often enough to
justify trying to save up for it. Anyhow, there should be
eclipse photos showing up around the web much sharper than
mine.