I often find myself reaching for a camera in low light situations where a flash is inappropriate or what I want to capture is the lighting itself. So I've shot a lot of what is customarily called "available light" photography, which a bandmate dubbed "available gloom".
I also favour longer lenses; often, what fascinates me is some small detail across the room, or just a candid moment -- a fascinating facial expression, for example -- that I'll interrupt if I move close enough to distract the subject.
The problem, of course, is that longer lenses don't usually open up to the wider apertures to let in enough light for "available gloom" shooting.
But thanks to someone on the Pentax-Discuss mailing list, I now know what lens I want.
No, no, do not tell me how much it costs, and especially do not tell me how much it weighs; you'll spoil my daydream. While you giggle, I'll be over here envisioning ways to make that thing less conspicuous at a medieval feast ...
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How to make it less conspicuous...
Or you could always try "look - a monkey!"...
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Now we're playing with a couple of different fancy point & shot digital cameras with add-on lens. I suspect that before we're done, we will end up with one of the Canon digital SLRs...
Janice
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Though as a Canon shooter you theoretically have access (assuming enough time to hunt for it and enough money to pay for it) to the 50mm f/0.9 lens, the ultimate low-light normal lens. Even with a 2x converter, it'd still function like a f/1.8! AFAIK, the fastest Pentax is f/1.2.
As for a DSLR, I got to borrow one for an afternoon several months ago, and ooooh that was fun. The one I played with was a Nikon; if I had the money to buy one, I'd be looking at Pentax first, to be able to use the lenses I already own.
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I think an IR flash might be a bit more practical.
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Putting an IR filter in front of a Xenon strobe results in a) an awfully low guide number (I shot a roll at home that way to determine that -- I'll have to go find those negs to refresh my memory regarding what the result was), and b) just enough visible light leakage through the filter that others see a red light blink over me. I haven't used it enough to find out whether other people find the red blink distracting or not.
I'm hoping to get more range out of a whole mess o' IR LEDs mounted next to each other. (I'm not sure how much I can get away with overdriving an LED for a really short time like that, but also don't know whether I'll need to overdrive them in the first place -- I get the impression that IR LEDs are a lot brighter than visible LEDs.) I just need to a) get around to building the darned thing, and b) find out experimentally whether the LEDs put out enough energy in the wavelengths Kodak HIE is sensitive to that most of the power I dump into them will wind up being useful. (How narrow is the output band of an IR LED?)
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The IR LEDs are an interesting idea. The light spectrum is very narrow, usually in the very near IR region. For a single pulse of a millisecond or so, I suspect you could easily overdrive then 100x or more.
BTW, cell phone cameras usually omit the IR blocking filter, so they can be used for verifying that the LEDs really light up, etc.
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Subjects like the LED lights because so little heat is projected on them. Of course, the heat then shows up at the power pack.
Janice
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Janice
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There is also always the idea of using an infrared flash...