eftychia: Me in poufy shirt, kilt, and Darth Vader mask, playing a bouzouki (vader)
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posted by [personal profile] eftychia at 02:13pm on 2010-01-25

I need an intervalometer. (It can be all electronic -- no solenoid -- because the *istD has an electrical shutter release connector.)

Is þe olde 555 chip and a cookbook circuit still the right way to go, or should I look up something else? (Or have off-the-shelf intervalometers gotten cheap enough that I won't save much by buying a chip, and SCR, and a few resistors and capacitors at Radio Shack?)

Right now I'm using the timer function on my cell phone and pressing the shutter button on the camera each time the annoying sound rings. (I don't need precise timing for what I'm doing now, so the variation in how long it takes me to walk over to the camera and then reset the cell phone isn't hurting anything.) It'd be nice to be able to just leave something running for forty minutes and go do something else ... and this isn't the first time I've found myself wanting an intervalometer.

Unlike a lot of other "I ought to be able to build it myself" electronic project ideas, I expect the hardest part of this one to be soldering a cable to the darned sub-mini (2.5 mm) TRS phone plug that goes into the camera. Maybe I can find a dead pair of stereo earbuds that failed someplace other than at the plug, and just splice that cable on instead of screwing up more bare sub-mini phone plugs than I've already ruined in my last project.

There are 4 comments on this entry. (Reply.)
 
posted by [identity profile] whc.livejournal.com at 10:38pm on 2010-01-25
The 555 is 40 years old and still going strong! I wouldn't hesitate to use it if it meets your requirements.
eftychia: Me in poufy shirt, kilt, and Darth Vader mask, playing a bouzouki (vader)
posted by [personal profile] eftychia at 02:49am on 2010-01-26
Coolness. Something I learned about electronics in high school is still going to be useful. I had a feeling that might be the answer, given how simple the 555 seems to be to work with.
bodger: girls in photo booth (photobooth girls)
posted by [personal profile] bodger at 02:15am on 2010-01-26
Probably still cheaper to make than to buy. I would agree that splicing a cable that already has a 2.5mm plug on it is probably the way to go (but watch out for cords with the weird tinsel wire inside, that stuff is a major pain to solder). I'd offer you one of mine, but they're the fancy serial link kind that work with earlier Nikon Coolpix series cameras.

I'm currently in the process of building a flashbulb synchronizer that triggers the shutter 20ms after the flashbulb, to allow the flashbulb to come up to brilliance.

eftychia: Me in poufy shirt, kilt, and Darth Vader mask, playing a bouzouki (vader)
posted by [personal profile] eftychia at 03:01am on 2010-01-26
That reminds me ... I never did get flashbulb handle to plug into the 'FP' socket on my Pentax H3 to do high-speed flash sync. (The other plan was to convert the other H3 to make the FP socket do trailing-curtain sync, leaving the 'X' socket for normal first-curtain flash.) Even though I'm not shooting much film lately, I should get around to that just for the amusement value of being able to do such modern high-end stuff on cameras older than I am.

Thanks for the warning about the cable. I guess what I should do is find one cable that I can work with easily, and put a more manageable connector on the other end, then make my intervalometer and cable-release switch both plug into that (since I'll only be using on of those at a time).

On the *istD, one conductor activates the autofocus and the other trips the shutter. Both are simply activated by shorting them to the common conductor, so the only thing at all tricky about working with the connector is attaching the darned sub-mini plug.

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