Probably still cheaper to make than to buy. I would agree that splicing a cable that already has a 2.5mm plug on it is probably the way to go (but watch out for cords with the weird tinsel wire inside, that stuff is a major pain to solder). I'd offer you one of mine, but they're the fancy serial link kind that work with earlier Nikon Coolpix series cameras.
I'm currently in the process of building a flashbulb synchronizer that triggers the shutter 20ms after the flashbulb, to allow the flashbulb to come up to brilliance.
That reminds me ... I never did get flashbulb handle to plug into the 'FP' socket on my Pentax H3 to do high-speed flash sync. (The other plan was to convert the other H3 to make the FP socket do trailing-curtain sync, leaving the 'X' socket for normal first-curtain flash.) Even though I'm not shooting much film lately, I should get around to that just for the amusement value of being able to do such modern high-end stuff on cameras older than I am.
Thanks for the warning about the cable. I guess what I should do is find one cable that I can work with easily, and put a more manageable connector on the other end, then make my intervalometer and cable-release switch both plug into that (since I'll only be using on of those at a time).
On the *istD, one conductor activates the autofocus and the other trips the shutter. Both are simply activated by shorting them to the common conductor, so the only thing at all tricky about working with the connector is attaching the darned sub-mini plug.
(no subject)
I'm currently in the process of building a flashbulb synchronizer that triggers the shutter 20ms after the flashbulb, to allow the flashbulb to come up to brilliance.
(no subject)
Thanks for the warning about the cable. I guess what I should do is find one cable that I can work with easily, and put a more manageable connector on the other end, then make my intervalometer and cable-release switch both plug into that (since I'll only be using on of those at a time).
On the *istD, one conductor activates the autofocus and the other trips the shutter. Both are simply activated by shorting them to the common conductor, so the only thing at all tricky about working with the connector is attaching the darned sub-mini plug.